Quilting

My goals to improve on the quilt I’ve used the past couple years were primarily a bit more fill and some shape tweaking.  Shell and liner are Nobull2 from Tigoat, which is probably the best balance of weight, cost, breathability, wind/water resistance, and hand/feel that I’ve used.  Dimensions are 52″ wide for almost the whole upper half to accomodate my knees-up side sleeping, tapering to 38″ at the footbox.  ~73″ long.  Fill weight is right at 11 oz and total weight is 16.5 oz.  The aim was 30ish degrees with a couple ounces of overfill.     DSCF1409

There’s a pretty hard curve in at the shoulders.  On my previous quilt, I rarely adjusted anything.  I had the drawcord pulled in so it was tight over my shoulders and left it.  On this one I tried to shave some weight by just shaping the quilt that way.  I also used a two piece, top-bottom design rather than one single large flat quilt with a sewn footbox.  This allows for a bit more precise shape and, at least in theory, makes the quilt tend to stay on top of the user and less likely to roll off.  It’s not really any more difficult than a single piece: cut out four pieces of what you want the final shape to be, cut two of those pieces in half lengthwise (this will be the bottom), sew those bottom pieces to the top pieces at the sides, and proceed as normal.  Feel free to ask questions if that doesn’t make sense.

DSCF1418

Drawcord is offset and top baffle extra over-filled to act as draft collar.  I rarely fastened my last one but there’s a couple snaps at the neck and loops for some shockcord along the back.  DSCF1415

As for the colors, lets just say I was out of black thread, rolled with what I had, and it almost got much more out of hand than this (think dangerously close to a quilt in the more traditional sense).

 

The last big project for the winter will be a ‘mid.  Stay tuned.

 

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One thought on “Quilting

  1. Hi, really pleased I found your site here, I’m in the process of planning my own MYOG quilt and had decided to try and replicate the quilts made by kabatic gear but needed to study how they are in face made, your quilt here is the closest I’ve seen including the differential cut.
    I’m starting to think I have it sorted in my head but this quilt thread and your mummy sleeping bag helps confirm my thoughts.
    Couple of questions if I can about the cut of your quilt. I now understand the idea of cutting the top and bottom of the bag separately so you can create more of a mummy shape compared to a flat quilt as you say but I wondered about the underside, I understand you cut it in half to split it but do you also cut more of a rounded shape for the underside opening as you can see in the katabatic gear quilts which is then edged in elastic braiding as they do?
    I’m thinking it has to have some extra shaping cut out of it otherwise it will just be identical to the top half with simply a slit opening in it.
    Differential cut; I’m planning to have a 2.25″ / 57mm baffle height to calculate this differential I am simply taking my intended flat open width for the quilt and drawing this as the circumference of a circle drawn in CAD and simply off setting this by the 57mm… Correct?
    From memory this equates to inner layer = 1320mm, outer layer = 1680mm which is 360mm difference.
    For the baffles is it then easier to stitch to the outer layer first then pleat as you go onto the inner a little bit at regular intervals or vice versa? Do all the awkward pleating onto the inner first then simple straight stitch to the outer?

    Sorry for so many queries, maybe you can contact me direct using my email.
    Great inspirTion here though, thanks for sharing.
    Chris

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