Stomping grounds

Aside from being an obvious must-visit just by looking at a map, this area has some fascinating history that makes it particularly special.



One of the most rewarding side benefits of doing trips with a baby over the last year and a half has been learning to enjoy things like spending a half day checking out every crack upcanyon.  Miles and hours not spent on overall progress was previously hard to stomach…

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Colors were great…

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Afternoons are suddenly quite short.._DSC5914



Climbing out for camp is worthwhile this time of year.


White granite washes were a unique experience…



More hours exploring dead-ends…


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Lots of cross drainages makes a multitude of loop options look good on mpas, but on the ground is always different.  Three drainages that looked like they would surely get me where I wanted all ended in barely-unpassable dryfalls.  A pass at dusk finally got me where I needed to be.  With 5ish miles to go, half of which I had already done on day one, I decided hiking out in the dark would allow me to do some extra exploring the next day, so I kept walking.  Boulder hopping, yet another head-scratching canyon country miner’s route out, and I was back at the truck for cold beer and cultural catch-up with KCYN CANYON COUNTRY, 97.1…


Photoset: Where the canyon begins

I’ve become increasingly enamored with exploring the greater Glen Canyon area over the past couple years.  I often don’t see the lake and when I do I tend to blast through as quickly as possible, especially the weedy, silty mess where the water ends.  Last week I finished a trip early and had an extra day to check out a canyon that required walking through the said zone.  On my way out as I was about to climb up to the Kayenta bench and hightail it out of there I decided to take a few shots.  Shot with A7RII and Zeiss Contax G 90/2 Planar.

Photo set: Sand, rock, storm

Going to try something different.  Hopefully these can become a regular installment.  I don’t really know what to call it; I don’t like “photoessay” and it’s not really as formal as a “gallery” or “portfolio”.  Just a group of photos with something/somewhere in common without having to force them into a “trip report”.  I’ll give the wordpress gallery format a try but I’m not completely sold on it.

These are from a walk last weekend.  Shot with DP1 and DP3 Merrill.

Click for gallery view.


It’s always a good idea to have a couple easy access trips in your back pocket.  This trip was supposed to be somewhere else, but an increasingly poor forecast had 2+ hours of off pavement driving looking like a bad idea.


Several years ago while flipping through a certain normally-awful magazine there was a trip that caught my eye that looked surprisingly creative and excellent.  DP1M0782


A few modifications to add some good-looking stuff, remove some lame-looking stuff and make a loop and I had a nice highway accessible trip for times like these.DP1M0790


Funny thing is Autumn and I started a variation of this a few years ago but about four miles in decided we just weren’t that into it at the moment, drank the beers we had brought, and went and swam in the Fremont instead.



The weather changed from sun to sleet to hail to rain in 15 minute intervals most of the trip.






As far as Utah national park traverses on navajo sandstone go, I’ll just say I’m not sure why anyone would choose Trans-Zion.





Now that’s a gully scramble…



Basic idea is up ridge, down drainage or vice-versa.  The crux was an icy, neck-deep slot swim which luckily came during 15 minutes of sun…








In my hasty loop closing planning I neglected to notice that I had to walk through a parking lot trailhead, but it was the last day and almost back anyway, so minor foul.  The first 30 miles or whatever was smashing good with some of the best park hiking I’ve done anywhere.




Quenault Creek

I suppose moving away from anywhere there would be some regrets of things you neglected to do, but it still pains me that I was on backpacking hiatus while living in Washington.  Luckily we still have a lot of family and reason for regular visits.  Olympic National Park always seemed to be pretty special the few times I visited and a proper few nights spent there has been on the list for several years.


After spending a few glorious sunny fall days on Whidbey Island for some friends’ wedding (where we were also married one day away from exactly seven years earlier), the forecast for the following days when we would be out in the wilds didn’t look great, though I figured it would be appropriate to have a proper rainforest experience after such a brutally dry summer.






Trail name: Mossy Bottoms


Being there for the small window of colors other than green was a treat…






Backpacking with Z has made the idea of the basecamp make sense for the first time.  It’s pretty difficult to be under 40 lbs with the carrier (just the pack and babe is already 30+) and it’s nothing like carrying a well packed 40 lbs in a nicely harnessed backpack.  Being able to dump shelter, food, and not carry around a few days worth of wet and dirty diapers is the way to go when possible.


We did get a bit of rain on day two but nothing to hamper spirits.


Mountain goats, lots of elk, and two bears made the already spectacular day even more magical.














Despite the rain our camp was under such enormous and dense cedars that it was completely dry when we arrived back at camp.  The difference in darkness and light between our camp and 30 meters out amongst the scattered alders along the creek was staggering.




Reminding Auntie not to forget the Evan Williams in her morning coffee…










I prefer loops but returning the way you came isn’t all bad.  New perspective, new light, and always things you missed the first time…












This would be a pretty spectacular (if woody) boat ride earlier in the summer…


No roads through the park and lots of trailless drainages definitely gets the future-possibilities-crank turning.


A couple nights of car camping at Mt. Rainier topped things off nicely.

























Returning to familiar places differently, whether by different access points or as part of a completely different trip is always worthwhile, but revisiting some of those places with Zazie has been tremendously rewarding.






I’ve become pretty sloppy with packing over the last couple years.  I often forget things, accidentally leave extra things in my pack, take more food than I need, not enough food, etc.  I know I’ll be fine and it’s usually not more than an annoyance, but having someone else completely relying on me who can’t decide that she’s okay with dealing with those consequences has made me refocus some gear choices.


Shelter has perhaps been the biggest change.  I very rarely even take a shelter and have never backpacked with a floored shelter.  We cowboy camped a few nights before she was very mobile, but anything less than fully enclosed and freestanding would be pretty frustrating.  There would be lots of sand eating and center pole fixing.


We went with a Tarptent Cloudburst 3, which has met our needs quite well.  Dead easy to set up and lots of room for the small footprint.  The only problem has been on this particular trip, which was the first that we have actually used it in any rain.  I bought the tent used but it had never actually been used, and I neglected to notice it hadn’t been seam sealed.  We had about 5 hours of continuous, often heavy rain our first night of the trip (another scenario where a suitable, liveable shelter is a must with a baby), so some creative leak plugging was necessary.



Setting up a basecamp minimizes hauling the required extra gear for most of the trip and also has the advantage of a low penalty for extra tasty and heavy food and beverage.






We also gave in and picked up an Osprey Poco Plus after not being satisfied with a couple other gifted and/or diy framed carriers.  A woven wrap was great when she was smaller and we still use it a lot, but for backpacking its not the most practical anymore.  The Osprey is pretty nice; most notably the storage space is quite impressive and well-designed.  The hipbelt isn’t great, which is too bad considering 35 lbs in one of these carriers feels a lot different than 35 lbs in a pack thats a nice solid compressed unit right against your back.  Overall, though a framed carrier has lots of advantages, like a place to sit and a sunshade for someone who pulls a hat off after about 45 seconds.











Some very cool, very old alcove finds of the non-human variety




It’s easier than ever to decide it’s too much to head out, but the experience and and memories made are richer than ever.


Such sexy rock


Navajo, that is.


Wild canyons are of course awesome but sometimes what’s between them is even wilder.  Route planning is in one sense easier because there’s more flexibility than being restricted to a canyon but figuring out what not to miss makes it trickier and being willing to just wing it is key, even after all those hours looking at topos and sat images.


I’d spent quite a bit of recent time in the area so to avoid spending time covering some of the same ground again a little cheating was in order to start




After a couple hours of mesmerizing blackbrush walking, a little evening exploring.  Water situation looking quite nice (always a worry when you’re about to spend a week out of canyon bottoms in the desert).








Just about every day was worthy of setting up a basecamp and spending 3 or 4 days in the area exploring.DP1M0263


Adding to the coolest-places-I’ve-ever-been list…




Get on up…







Of course you can’t stay out of all the canyons…




















Never had to carry more than a liter…











If you’re staying in the bottom, you’re missing out…








I’ve ascended and descended the Waterpocket Fold maybe a dozen times in the past months and it’s always madness.  Map in your hand, thinking you picked a sweet route and then everything just falls away.  I love it. DP1M0546





A successful trip when you return with weeks worth of future trips to do.




The big ugly

I’ve been using a Paradox Unaweep 3900 in VX42 since last fall, which is the first pack in years I’ve used that I didn’t make.  Much has already been said about the Unaweep’s brilliance, but once you’ve made a pack or two, it’s impossible to just leave things as is.


The goal was to utilize the Unaweep’s near-perfect harness design, but in a slightly slimmer, more flexible package optimized for the canyon country hiking that I most often do.  This means a decent bit of scrambling, narrow spots, and bushwacking in canyon bottoms.  While the Unaweep moves more like a internal framed pack than other externals, it’s still rather stiff and wide for my usual needs.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Fabric is X50 from Dimension-Polyant, which is 500d cordura, x-ply, .5 PET layer.  7.9 oz/sq yd.  I’m a big Cordura fan and this stuff is great.  It’s reasonably pliable and should be a decent bit more abrasion resistant than VX42, which I haven’t been terribly impressed with.  It could be made even better by removing the x ply yarn, which does nothing but add stiffness and weight in this heavy of a fabric.  Some colors other than black Multicam would be welcome as well.


I used .16″x.5″ 7075 aluminum for the stays.  It cannot be emphasized enough how differently 7075 behaves compared to 6061.  In addition to being much stronger, you can bend 7075 quite a lot and it just springs back to it’s previous shape.  6061 stays as you bend it.

Hipbelt attachment to the frame is the same as the Unaweep, although the attachment points are about 5.5″ apart compared to ~12″ on the Unaweep.  At least on my skinny frame this allows quite a bit better wrap.  After using the external-style hipbelt attachment I can’t imagine making or buying anything else.  You have to have a bottom crosspiece but I’d wager it still ends up lighter than wing style belts because you don’t need a lumbar pad, hipbelt stiffeners, reinforcement to the belt connection, etc.

Stay sleeves are all on the outside of the pack, which makes removal for other pack bags easier and allows for much easier sealing from the inside.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Removable front compression pocket has a #8 zip with plenty of fabric to protect the coils.  Rock kills exposed coils quickly.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA


Bottom compression strap can be placed over side pocket to keep it nice and tight (above) or under/inside the pocket to be out of the way (below).


This is achieved by not sewing the entire side of the pocket; it’s just bartacked with the daisy chain.


Dimensions are about 11.5″ across the back, 34″ circumference for the lower part tapering to 38″at the top.  Weight is 3 lb on the nose plus about 5 oz for the front compression pocket.



It’s first outing was a week long trip down in the Pollywog Bench area and it performed flawlessly.  Starting out with 7 days of not particularly light food, full packrafting gear and a six-pack of Tecate felt fantastic.  It won’t haul out an elk as comfortably as the Unaweep, but for loads up to 40-50 lb I can’t imagine much improvement.  It carries a more typical 20-30 lb more comfortably than I’ve ever experienced.


Like the Unaweep, it should make a great platform for future projects.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

More Fold ramblin



There might not be a place where the old “39′ cliffs don’t show up on a topo” is more appropriate.  This is hard country to negotiate.



After about halfway up crossing drainages is next to impossible so you better hope you ended up between two good ones…_P3M0166

We did, but it wasn’t looking good in a couple places…



Things get a little easier on top, but not much



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Some (very) early Lomatium blooming before it even has leaves…_P3M0224

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To make a proper loop we decided to shortcut across what used to be Bullfrog and Halls BayDP1M0231

The upper reaches of Lake Powell are particularly maddening.  When you figure the amount of time it took for the lake to fill, all those upper reaches were destroyed for what, 20 years of use?  Lame.  The standing dead cottowoods won’t let you forget how recently things were different…


Nice beach spot with views of some of the most awesome wilderness in the lower 48…


Fold ramblin’ and wingate canyon headin’





I don’t think I’ve ever come to so many places in one trip where I said, “no way this goes” and then, just barely, it does.  I laughed more than once recalling Dave’s story of running around up here in the dark.DP1M0016

For the time of year water was surprisingly scarce.  While Choprock not far north had received significant rain in the past month, there had been zero further south.  So it goes in canyon country.


Good reason to visit some of the most strangely-located potholes anywhere, even if they’re a few miles out of the way.




…and back to the wingate…_P3M0117




Again, from the top (and all the way down) it looked like there was no way this route would go, but alas…


back to solid streambed…DP1M0051


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